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The author, a volunteer doctor from
Switzerland, had intended to spend two months in Honiara working
as a registrar in the general surgery department of the National
Referral Hospital.
I started my trip on the 21st of March from
Zurich and arrived on the 23rd of March in Honiara. I could tell
already at the airport that this was going to be an interesting
experience. First, the temperature was at least 30°C and the
humidity was 90 %, within a couple of minutes I was completely
wet. I also learned that in the Solomon Islands everything works
slower, it took three hours to go through emigration and
customs.
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| Guadalcanal |
Honiara International Airport |
People from the hospital picked me up from the
airport and drove me to the United Church Resthouse, where I
stayed two weeks.
It was quite nice, clean and they even had
some warm water to have a shower, however I enjoy a cold shower
in the morning, so it did not bother me when there was no warm
water. From my place to the hospital was a 15 minutes walk.
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| United Church Resthouse |
Honiara's main street |
Unfortunately it was right next to the main
street, where the air was quite dirty due to all the traffic.
Despite this, it was a nice walk and the people were very
friendly always wishing you a good morning. After one week,
everybody knew that I was a medical doctor, even though I had
never met them before.
I worked in the general surgery department. We
started at 7:45 a.m. with the report from the casualty, after
this we started our ward round. In the afternoon we had the new
admission or referral clinic. Usually at 16:30 p.m. we finished
work. The work was everyday a new experience. The usual problems
we were faced with were diabetic foot sepsis, but also many
appendectomies and thyroidectomies. Tuesdays and Thursdays were
our theatre days. Almost every time I was the first assistant and
was able to use my knowledge and improve my techniques. My
consultants were always helpful and were there to answer my
questions, but with time I was able to do the work by myself,
after two weeks I was doing abscess incisions and drainages on my
own.
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| Emergency Entrance NRH |
OT NRH |
Diabetic foot sepsis |
Honiara is not a beautiful city; in fact it is
quite dirty, noisy and hot. But as soon as I went out of the main
city the beauty of the Solomons appeared. It has nice rain
forests, green hills, and an interesting history. Of course,
Honiara also has a beach, but I never saw anybody having a swim
and I also do not recommend it! About 10km out of the capital is
a beautiful beach, where we had a swim, without getting sick
afterwards. But you still need to be careful because the corals
are quite sharp and can be dangerous.
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| Beach 10km from the center of Honiara |
WWII airplane wreck |
There are also some museums, which are quite
interesting, they have a lot of history about World War II, and
are worth going to see. You can also do a tour around the
battlefield if you are interested, it is a must.
After two weeks I moved to the Kiwi-House. I
really had to fight to get there; I asked the administration at
least four times. Unfortunately, I have to admit, they are not at
all organised. I heard from other students over there that they
were charged 60 Solomon Dollars a day to stay there, which is
quite expensive. At the United Church Rest house I paid 72
Solomon Dollars a day. From the Kiwi-House to the hospital it was
not even a five minutes walk.
The 5th of April was election day in the
Solomons, which passed quite peacefully. On the 18th of April the
parliament elected the prime minister, who was not the first
choice of the people. They accused him to be paid by the Chinese
community, it is important to know that Asians run almost all the
shops and restaurants in the Solomons. On this Tuesday there was
a demonstration in front of the parliament. As the new Prime
Minister appeared the situation went out of control. Stones and
bottles were thrown by people and the police responded with tear
gas. The people then went to Chinatown and started looting and
burning down the Asian stores.
The Kiwi-House was close to the main street,
where the mob would walk by. We saw many people carrying stolen
goods. We did not sleep much in the night from Tuesday to
Wednesday. Two students from the UK called their high
commissioner, who gave us the advice to stay in the house.
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| Chinatown after the riot |
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| View from the
Kiwi-House, the police tried to stop the cars |
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| The burned Pacific Casino Hotel |
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The next day we went to the hospital as usual.
Our medical superintended asked us to keep on working, so we did.
There were no bad injuries, just some cuts that needed some
stitches. The tension kept going the next night also, and the
Pacific Casino Hotel was burned. It was again an uncomfortable
night.
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| Leaving Honiara on a Hercules |
At 10 p.m. the British high commissioner
called us and told us that he was coming down to get us and he
was going to take us with him, we spent that night at his
residence. The next morning he told us that there was a plane
leaving the Solomon's. He recommended us to take it, because he
did not know when there would be another one. He also advised us
that all the food stores were looted, and there would eventually
be problems to find food to eat. We decided to take the plane to
Australia. As a result my volunteer work turned into an
adventure, where at the end a military plane flew us to
Australia.
After this whole experience, I still must
admit, that the Solomons is a very nice country where you can see
medical problems which are quite different from what we are used
to, e.g. tumours that weigh 5 kg , infected feet with worms
inside etc...
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| 5kg tumour |
This made me realise how lucky we are to have
such a good health system and we should appreciate it much more.
I will definitely go back to the Solomons one day and next time I
will stay longer, because the knowledge and experience I can
bring to their hospitals is needed there.
© May 2006 S.Forte
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